roof an ceiling batten summary

after the walls are set up. The trusses are stacked up on top of the walls from the beginning to the end, this is set up like this so that it is easier to stand up like a domino affect, CAPTION: Marty walking across confirming the stableness an strength of the trusses

once the trusses are all up they are braced in the middle to keep them standing so we can space them out at 845mm apart.The trusses are nailed down into the top plate CAPTION: Trusses braced an spaced

because timber is not always straight the trusses at the end are braced just like walls to get that flat edge, nails are nailed into to prevent movement an nail plates are use to connect the trusses with the top plate CAPTION:Clamp being used to keep the truss from moving out of place

CAPTION:cross brace used to prevent movements at the ends

metal braces are used to hold a tension between trusses to prevent movement. This is similar to wall bracing, block tensioners are used on the metal strip

once trusses are accurately placed purlins are put on actin as the final brace an also the layer for the roofing to be nailed to,the purlin are nailed in with 90mm galv FH. Z nails are used connecting pulins to the trusses

ceiling battens are nailed to the trusses with 75mm nails galv FH made up joist is shot through the middle of the lounge to hold up the ceiling battens to prevent it from breaking. Ceiling batten are spaced at 400m. string lines are used to help find the straightness.

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dogy wires are nailed into the stud an top plate. before nailing a gap is chiseled out so wen the wire goes in it does cause a lump when the covers go over the walls

building summary factory ready walls,bracing,wall made on site,alligning the walls,scaffoling an trusses

wall butts up against double stud an packers to 100x0.4 galv nail Fh are shot in to hold it in place

number of the wall each joint a nail plate was put in one every where around but double if a brace was on the wall

 

wall is braced to the house to keep it from moving

lintel supported by jack stud to hold the lintel. Triple stud is used because of the length of the lintel. Amount of studs change depending on the length of the lintel.

wall is braced with the metal brace for strength.two nails go in the nogs and three in the studs

double packers

truck dropoped off all the walls and the material of the wall to be built,followed the plan the manufactures sent and stood each wall on the number that was shown in the specs.we set up string line all arounud after that was done an alligned all the walls up an nailed them into the floor board. we then did the same to the of the walls we used log braces of 90x45 an nailed tmen to the ground when the top of the frame was straighter. som nogs were removed from the factory made frames because they were makin the stud not straight,they wer cut for a better fit.

standard being connected to the legers with cuplings

poles being shot 800 across

scafolding used a range of differnt size poles we combined the with squiggles,metal connectos an cuplings,the spacing of the standarsa wer at1500 an were held by the ledgers which shot right through one at the top an one at the bottom this was fixed to another set which was parrallel an had a gap of 800 after the bracing the top was fixed with more pipes which had blanks runing down on.

walls the same thicknes as a normal tiber wall the npackers are needed,

little srews are used to hold the metal frames

takes only one person to move the frame

hollow inside the filled like timber

finished frame clean an good finish

learnt the difernce of strength with metal an timber framing,built a metal famed shed jus using screws an the drill,the metal frames were stable an were more stronger also it was fairly light.

marking out an nailing the top to keep the trusses in place

measuring out the purlins

spacing out at 845 an nail into the top plate with 100x.4mm galv FH

trusses sitting on top of top plate an ceiling battens. ceiling battens are nailed on to the trusses

using a mark to make the marking owt easier

laid the trusses today put them all above the frames an set them up so it was easy to stand them we used a long timber to nail the tussess so they wouldnt move. we spaced them owt at 845 continue nxt week

extra experience

finished cleaning the ground layed down hardys (1.8x1.2) used cleats to hold them to ground

removing the bath tub.taken jib away and broke down the box holding the shower

old fasion house with a different bracing style. studs an nogs were cut to fit the diagonal brace inside.Studs were nailed in at 600mm centers

the top of the original shower, mouldy from the badd shower an moisture cloggin up in the causing mould

brick laying for the outside anwood frame inside fill with pink batts to prevent the damp moisture coming through

sealed of taps after removing sink. turn off water pipe infront of teh house. double nogs for the sink to mount to.

close up shot of the pipes being sealed off.

shower before being removed

mouldy ceiling

sink before being removed

type of gib use (2.4x1.2) 20mm thickness

used hardys to lay on the floor so the tiles could go on

underneath the shower.used plywood (2.4x1.2) measured to fit in the gap , added some cut off of 150x50 so the gib could sit on top